someone posted the link of this somewhere on here but it didn’t get much attention as it was already in another thread and i thought it needed it’s own thread.
You can connect wires without soldering just by removing the isolation from both sides, putting them together and “twisting” them, so that they tie together… remember you have to put some isolation around it, there do exist special kind of gluing-tapes for this.
but I think the description is somewhat strange. What purpose does the battery have? I would not recommend to connect it in this way, since when the alarm goes off it would propably overheat.
You also have to check, if the voltage for the beeper is the same which is needes for the LEDs… otherwise it will not work or you will even destroy the LEDs.
you also have to make quite long wires from the alarm to your mask, I don’t think you can secure that this hole thing won’t break while you move in bed.
Thanks for replying, i am sorry for the late reply. Do you think you could explain to me a bit more about this, i really want to make this LD device, what kind of clock should i use digital or the analogue bell type (windup type)?
The batterys purpose is that when you want to go to bed to have a LD. You set the time that you want the alarm to go off and for this you need the battery. The point is that your going to be removing the circuitry and disconnecting it from the bells speakers. So that went the alarm goes off you would want the signal to alert a pair of led’s.
The wires should all fit into a sleepmask, the circuit and the wires should be fine, i have a digital clock which is very thin and small i don’t see how that can’t fit into my sleep mask. I just need some wires that are long enough to get to the LED’s that are infront of each eye.
Do you think you could help me on the isloating part as i don’t understand, where can i find this special gluing tape?
Is there anyother way i can connect the wires without having to use gluing tapes, like is there a way i can just lock them in position.
As the author of the amazing TimedEyeFlasher I think I can aswer some of your questions.
I wrote the instructions about 3-4 years ago and haven’t read it or edit it since. Therefor there migth be some miss spelling (not that I still don’t do that) and maby some inlogical electronic references (or what it is called)
The extra battery is there becouse the LEDs I used neaded 2.2v to work. By connecting 2x 1.2v battery I got 2.4v witch worked fine. If you can get LEDs that works on 1.2-1.5v, then go with them and skip the battery.
When it comes to the connecting of wires, I would strongly recommend soldering as it is strong and easy to do. Learning to solder is easy to do at home without any spesial instructions (just remeber to heat the lead for a few seconds after it melts so it sticks better together. (heat the metall parts with the solder-iron and put the lead to the heated metall until it melts))
You can also glue the wireings together and insulate with electrical tape, but the connection migth end up bad.
Since I have got a few replys about the TEF I think I migth have to update the instructions
many thanks for posting here, It was great to find that your email address still works after 3-4 years ago.
Do you know of any alarm clocks that has multiple alarms? you also mention getting some LED’s don’t i need the flashing LED’s?
I was thinking if it’s possible to get a digital alarm clock which has ten alarms you can set, and also if you can choose the length that the alarm goes on for.
See with your device i thought if the alarm goes off for 1 minute then i am going to get 1 minute of flashes from the LED’s which means if i become lucid then the 1 minute of flashes might cause me to become unlucid or even wake up.
So your saying that i need one 1.2 or 1.5 volt battery, and LED’s that work on either 1.2 or 1.5 volt’s right?
So i can glue the wirings and not bother with soldering?
Sorry for all the questions, but this is awesome and i just want to build this with no problems.
First off, I don’t know alot about electonics. I have worked some with electric automation and I will use that knowlage to clearify the ohm thing: From what I understand, the current over the LED must be limited to what ever is specified by the manufacture. In must cases this is 10-20mA. It also has a voltage specified which is about 1.4-4.0v If this is the same as the power supply then you don’t have to worry. If it’s not, then you have to work out what resistance you need. This is done by using the following mathematical equation (Rs= (U-Ud)/Id) where U is the powersupply, Ud is the voltage specified for the LED and Id is the current specified for the LED. Rs is the needed resistance to put in serie with the LED.
I’ll try to explain this on my wepage…
Doesn’t this sound about right mr. quantum physics
With the alarmclock I used I didn’t need flashing LEDs since the output signal was pulsating (it sounded like this: TUT (pause) TUT).
I’m not a clock expert so can’t answer you about clocks that I haven’t tried.
If the TEF actually works is also a big question. It has the potential to work, but I havn’t tried it as much as I should have since I never managed to make the glasses comfortable enougth to sleep with. And I have lost the power to make my dreams lucid after the sleeping hours I had in the Norwegian Royal Navy.